Milan, on the surface, is a city of grand gestures. The Duomo soars, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II gleams, and the fashion is often a spectacle of vibrant, unadulterated glamour. Yet, tucked away in a quiet courtyard in the Brera district, within the walls of a 17th-century palazzo, a quieter revolution is taking place. This is the home of Maison Vero, the luxury house founded by Elena Marchetti, and the source of some of the most exquisitely understated clothing in fashion today.
Marchetti herself is a study in the same quiet intensity that defines her work. When we meet, she is dressed in a uniform of her own design: a pair of perfectly cut navy trousers, a simple silk blouse, and flat leather sandals. There is no visible logo, no extraneous detail. Her office, a vast, light-filled room with frescoed ceilings and minimalist furniture, overlooks a hidden garden. The only hint of the work that happens here is a single rack of clothing from her upcoming collection, a symphony of neutral tones and luxurious, sustainable fabrics.
Her path to this serene Milanese enclave was forged in the engine rooms of high fashion. After training in the legendary Valentino atelier in Rome—one of the first students in its prestigious ‘Bottega dell’Arte’ program—she spent a decade at Céline under the tutelage of Phoebe Philo, a period that profoundly shaped her understanding of modern femininity. In 2019, she struck out on her own, founding Maison Vero with a commitment to craftsmanship, sustainability, and a design philosophy that whispers rather than shouts. As the fashion world grapples with its own excesses, Marchetti’s thoughtful, seasonless approach feels more relevant than ever.
A New Chapter in Italian Style
Larizia: You spent years working within two of the most influential houses in fashion, Valentino and Céline. What made you decide it was time to create your own?
Elena Marchetti: It was less a decision and more of a natural evolution. At Valentino, I learned the absolute, uncompromising importance of craftsmanship, the couture techniques that are the bedrock of true luxury. At Céline, I learned to translate that quality into a language for the real woman. Phoebe [Philo] had an incredible ability to understand not just what women wanted to wear, but how they wanted to feel. After a decade there, I felt I had developed my own voice, my own perspective on that conversation. I wanted to build a house from the ground up with sustainability at its core, not as an afterthought, but as a founding principle.
Larizia: Maison Vero is celebrated for its use of sustainable fabrics. Was that a challenge to implement from a luxury perspective?
Elena Marchetti: Initially, yes. Five years ago, the most beautiful fabrics were not always the most sustainable. We had to work incredibly hard with our suppliers, mostly small, family-run mills in Italy, to develop materials that had the right hand-feel, the right drape, and the right environmental credentials. We use a lot of certified organic silks, recycled cashmere, and innovative textiles made from citrus by-products. It’s a constant process of discovery and innovation. But for me, there is no luxury without responsibility. The two must be intertwined.
“For me, there is no luxury without responsibility. The two must be intertwined.”
Larizia: Your designs are often described as ‘quiet luxury’. What does that term mean to you?
Elena Marchetti: I don’t think about it in terms of a trend. For me, it’s about a return to what is essential. It’s about the woman wearing the clothes, not the other way around. It’s the feeling of a perfectly tailored jacket on your shoulders, the weight of a beautiful knit, the way a silk dress moves with you. These are private, personal luxuries. They are not for show. They are for you. It’s a confidence that comes from within, from knowing you are wearing something of exceptional quality and integrity.
Larizia: You chose to establish your atelier here in Milan, rather than Paris or Rome. Why Milan?
Elena Marchetti: Milan has a discretion that I love. It’s a city of hidden courtyards and private gardens. There is an intellectual rigour to its beauty, a seriousness that I find very grounding. We are in Brera, which has this wonderful mix of art galleries, antique shops, and old-world artisans. It feels like a village within the city. And of course, we are close to our manufacturers. I can be at a fabric mill in Como in under an hour. That proximity is essential to how we work.
“It’s a confidence that comes from within, from knowing you are wearing something of exceptional quality and integrity.”
Larizia: The woman you design for—who is she?
Elena Marchetti: She is a woman of substance. She is intelligent, cultured, and engaged with the world. She isn’t interested in fleeting trends. She is building a wardrobe, not just buying clothes. She might be an architect, a writer, a gallerist, a lawyer. She has a strong sense of her own identity, and she wants her clothes to reflect that, not define it. She is self-possessed. That is the quality I am most drawn to, and the one I hope to empower with my work.
The Personal Edit
Larizia: What is the most treasured item in your own wardrobe?
Elena Marchetti: A vintage trench coat I bought at a flea market in Paris when I was a student. It’s a classic, men’s cut, and it has been with me for over twenty years. It’s perfectly worn-in, and it holds so many memories. It’s a reminder that the best things are not new, but the things we live our lives in.
Larizia: And finally, what is your greatest luxury?
Elena Marchetti: Time. The time to think, to read, to walk through the city without a destination. And the time to spend in this garden, with my hands in the soil. That, for me, is the ultimate luxury. It’s the one thing you can’t buy.
